Fixing common plumbing problems at home is easier than you think! This guide offers 40 essential DIY plumbing fixes, from leaky faucets to clogged drains. Learn simple, effective solutions to save money and keep your home in top shape.

Home plumbing can sometimes feel like a mystery, with drips, clogs, and gurgles causing frustration. But you don’t need to be a professional plumber to tackle many of these common issues. With the right tools and clear, simple steps, you can confidently handle everyday plumbing repairs. This guide is designed for you!

We’ll walk you through 40 essential DIY plumbing fixes, breaking down each task into easy-to-understand instructions. You’ll learn how to solve everyday annoyances, prevent minor problems from becoming major ones, and build your confidence in maintaining your home. Get ready to become your own home’s plumbing hero!

1. Fixing a Leaky Faucet

A dripping faucet is more than just annoying; it wastes a lot of water! The most common culprit is a worn-out washer or O-ring inside the handle. Here’s how to fix most common compression-style faucets:

Tools You’ll Need:

• Adjustable wrench
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver
• Replacement washers and O-rings (know your faucet type or buy an assortment kit)
• Plumber’s grease
• Rag or towel

Steps:

1. Turn off the water: Locate the shut-off valves under the sink and turn them clockwise until they stop. If you don’t have valves under the sink, you’ll need to shut off the main water supply to your house.
2. Remove the handle: Look for a decorative cap on the faucet handle. Pry it off gently with a flathead screwdriver. Then, unscrew the screw holding the handle in place.
3. Remove the packing nut: Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut.
4. Unscrew the stem: You should now be able to lift out the valve stem.
5. Replace the washer and O-ring: At the bottom of the stem, you’ll find a rubber washer attached with a screw. Unscrew the old washer and replace it with a new one. Also, check for an O-ring around the stem and replace it if it looks worn or cracked. Apply a bit of plumber’s grease to new O-rings for a better seal.
6. Reassemble: Screw everything back together in reverse order.
7. Check for leaks: Turn the water supply back on slowly and check if the drip has stopped.

2. Unclogging a Toilet

A clogged toilet is a common household emergency. A plunger is usually your first line of defense.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Flanged toilet plunger
• Old towels or newspapers (to protect the floor)
• Rubber gloves

Steps:

1. Protect the floor: Lay down towels or newspapers around the base of the toilet.
2. Plunge effectively: Ensure there’s enough water in the bowl to cover the plunger’s rubber cup. Place the plunger over the drain hole, creating a seal. Give it a firm, upward pull, then a strong downward push. Repeat this motion vigorously for about 20-30 seconds.
3. Check the flush: If the water level drops, try flushing the toilet. If it drains and flushes normally, you’ve succeeded!
4. If plunging fails: If the clog persists, you might need a toilet auger (snake). Feed the auger into the bowl and crank the handle to break up or pull out the obstruction.

3. Fixing a Running Toilet

A toilet that keeps running after you flush wastes water and can be noisy. The issue is often with the flapper or the fill valve in the tank.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Adjustable wrench
• Screwdriver
• Replacement flapper (if needed)
• Replacement fill valve kit (if needed)
• Rubber gloves

Steps:

1. Turn off water: Turn the shut-off valve on the wall behind the toilet clockwise.
2. Check the flapper: Lift the tank lid. The flapper is the rubber cup at the bottom of the flush valve. If it looks damaged, worn, or doesn’t seat properly, it needs replacement. You can often find universal flappers at hardware stores.
3. Adjust the float: If the flapper is fine, the problem might be the fill valve. Look at the float ball and stem. If the water level in the tank is too high and goes over the overflow tube, the fill valve may be faulty or needs adjustment. Often, there’s an adjustment screw on the fill valve assembly.
4. Replace the fill valve: If adjustment doesn’t work, you might need to replace the entire fill valve. Turn off the water, disconnect the supply line, unscrew the nut holding the fill valve at the bottom of the tank, and lift it out. Install the new one, reconnect the supply line, and turn the water back on.
5. Check: Refill the tank, flush, and ensure the water stops running.

4. Replacing a Showerhead

An old or clogged showerhead can reduce water pressure and may even leak. Replacing it is a simple upgrade.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Adjustable wrench
• Plumber’s tape (PTFE tape)
• Rag
• New showerhead

Steps:

1. Turn off water: To be safe, turn off the main water supply or the valve specifically for the shower if you have one.
2. Remove old showerhead: Wrap a rag around the shower arm where the showerhead connects. Use the adjustable wrench to turn the showerhead counter-clockwise. It should unscrew fairly easily.
3. Clean the threads: Remove any old plumber’s tape or debris from the shower arm threads.
4. Apply plumber’s tape: Wrap plumber’s tape clockwise around the threads of the shower arm. About 3-5 wraps usually suffice. This helps create a watertight seal.
5. Install new showerhead: Screw the new showerhead onto the arm clockwise by hand until it’s snug.
6. Tighten gently: Use the adjustable wrench to give it a final quarter-turn if needed, but don’t overtighten.
7. Test: Turn the water back on and check for leaks.

5. Unclogging a Sink Drain

Slow-moving or completely blocked sink drains are often caused by a buildup of hair, soap scum, and grease.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Plunger
• Rubber gloves
• Bucket
• Wire coat hanger (bent into a hook)
• Baking soda and vinegar (optional)
• Drain snake or auger (for tougher clogs)

Steps:

1. Remove standing water: Bail out as much water as possible with a cup or sponge.
2. Plunger method: Cover the overflow drain (if your sink has one) with a wet cloth to create suction. Place the plunger over the drain hole and plunge vigorously.
3. Coat hanger method: Straighten a wire coat hanger, leaving a small hook at the end. Push it into the drain and try to fish out any gunk.
4. Baking soda and vinegar: Pour about 1/2 cup of baking soda down the drain, followed by 1/2 cup of white vinegar. Let it fizz for 15-30 minutes, then flush with hot water. This can help break down mild grease clogs.
5. P-trap cleaning: If other methods fail, the clog might be in the P-trap (the curved pipe under the sink). Place a bucket underneath to catch water. Unscrew the slip nuts on either side of the P-trap, remove it, and clean out any debris. Reassemble and test.
6. Use a drain snake: For stubborn clogs, a drain snake is your best bet. Feed it down the drain and crank the handle to break up or retrieve the blockage.

6. Fixing a Dripping Showerhead

Similar to a faucet, a dripping showerhead often means the valve behind it needs attention, or the showerhead itself has a worn-out washer.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Adjustable wrench
• Plumber’s tape
• Rag
• New showerhead (if replacing), or replacement washers/O-rings

Steps:

1. Turn off water: Shut off the water supply to the shower.
2. Remove showerhead: Unscrew the showerhead from the shower arm using an adjustable wrench and a rag.
3. Inspect and clean: If the drip is from the showerhead itself (water still dribbling after shutoff), examine the internal washer. You might be able to replace it, or simply cleaning mineral deposits from the nozzle might help.
4. Address the valve: If water continues to drip from the shower arm after the showerhead is removed, the issue is likely with the shower valve’s internal components (cartridge or stem). This is a more involved repair, but often manageable with the right parts and instructions specific to your faucet type. You’ll typically need to remove the handle and trim plate to access the valve cartridge.
5. Reinstall/Replace: If you replaced a washer or the entire showerhead, reapply plumber’s tape to the threads and screw it back on, tightening gently.
6. Test: Turn the water on and check for drips.

7. Fixing a Leaky Toilet Flange

A leak where the toilet meets the floor typically means the wax ring around the flange needs replacement. This is a bit more involved but doable.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Wrench (to remove toilet bolts)
• Putty knife or scraper
• New wax ring
• New toilet bolts (optional, but recommended)
• Gloves, old towels
• Shop vac or mop

Steps:

1. Turn off water supply to the toilet and flush to empty the tank. Then, disconnect the supply line from the tank.
2. Remove the toilet: Remove the decorative caps on the floor bolts at the base of the toilet. Use a wrench to unscrew the nuts. Gently rock the toilet to break the wax seal and lift it straight up and set it aside on old towels.
3. Remove old wax ring: Use a putty knife or scraper to carefully remove the old wax ring from the flange on the floor and from the bottom of the toilet. Also, clean the surface around the flange.
4. Inspect the flange: Check the flange for cracks or damage. If it’s damaged, it will need to be repaired or replaced by a professional.
5. Install new wax ring: Place the new wax ring onto the flange on the floor, ensuring it’s centered.
6. Reinstall toilet: Carefully lower the toilet back into place, aligning it with the floor bolts. Press down firmly to seat the wax ring.
7. Secure toilet: Reinstall the nuts onto the floor bolts and tighten them securely, but don’t overtighten.
8. Reconnect supply line: Reconnect the water supply line.
9. Test: Turn the water back on, fill the tank, and flush. Check for leaks around the base.
10. Learn more about toilet flange repair at https://www.thisoldhouse.com/plumbing/21073164/how-to-replace-a-toilet-flange.

8. Fixing a Cracked or Loose Tile in Bathroom

Loose or cracked tiles can allow water to seep behind them, causing damage. It’s best to fix these promptly.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Grout saw or utility knife
• Grout removal tool or old putty knife
• New grout
• Small trowel or spatula
• Sponge
• Bucket
• Safety glasses
• Work gloves
• New tile (if cracked)
• Thin-set mortar
• Caulking gun and caulk

Steps:

1. Remove grout: Carefully use a grout saw or utility knife to remove the grout surrounding the loose or cracked tile.
2. Remove tile: If the tile is cracked, you may need to carefully break it into smaller pieces with a hammer (wear safety glasses!) and pry them out. If it’s just loose, try to pry it up gently.
3. Clean the area: Scrape away old mortar and any debris from the subfloor.
4. Install new tile (if needed): Apply thin-set mortar to the back of the new tile and the wall/floor where it will go. Press the tile into place, ensuring it’s flush with surrounding tiles.
5. Grout: Once the mortar is dry (usually 24 hours), mix new grout according to package directions. Apply grout with a small trowel, pressing it into the gaps around the tile.
6. Clean excess grout: Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsing the sponge frequently.
7. Seal: After the grout has cured (check product instructions), apply grout sealer. Caulk any gaps between the tile and fixtures.

9. Repairing a Gas Leak (Small Scale)

Safety First: If you suspect a gas leak, turn off the gas supply immediately and leave the property. Call your gas company or 911 from a safe location. Do NOT attempt to fix a gas leak yourself if you are not trained!

For minor leaks you may be able to detect (like around appliance connections) after the main issue is resolved, soapy water is your friend.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Bubble solution (dish soap and water)
• Wrench (if needed for tightening connections)
• Protective gloves

Steps (Only after ensuring gas is off and the area is ventilated):

1. Prepare solution: Mix dish soap with water in a spray bottle or bowl.
2. Apply solution: Carefully spray or brush the soapy water onto the suspected gas connection or pipe.
3. Observe bubbles: If bubbles form and grow, there is a leak.
4. Tighten connections: If the leak is at a threaded connection, try gently tightening it with a wrench.
5. Test again: Apply soapy water again to check if the leak has stopped.
6. If leak continues: Do not use the appliance and call a qualified professional immediately.
7. Learn about gas safety from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission: https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/gas_leak.pdf

10. Insulating Hot Water Pipes

Insulating your hot water pipes saves energy and can make your hot water stay hotter longer.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Foam pipe insulation sleeves (measure pipe diameter)
• Foam tape or duct tape
• Scissors or utility knife

Steps:

1. Turn off water heater: Shut off the power or gas to your water heater.
2. Measure pipes: Measure the length of exposed hot water pipes that you want to insulate.
3. Cut insulation: Cut the foam insulation sleeves to the required lengths.
4. Install insulation: Slip the pre-slit sleeves over the pipes. If they come with adhesive strips, peel and stick to secure.
5. Seal seams: Use foam tape or duct tape to seal any seams or gaps in the insulation, ensuring a continuous barrier.
6. For elbow joints: You may need to cut pieces of insulation at angles to fit around bends.
7. Turn water heater back on: Once insulated, turn your water heater back on.

11. Fixing a Running Toilet (Flapper Seat Issue)

Sometimes, the issue isn’t the flapper itself, but the “seat” it seals against.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Grout saw or utility knife
• Soft cloth
• Replacement seal/seat (if available for your model)

Steps:

1. Turn off water to the toilet.
2. Lift the tank lid and examine